View Full Version : Re-coating sealers
gryan
04-13-2008, 02:13 PM
I have been running across some drivways that had been sealed in the past with a joint sand stabiizer or water based sealer. I use a solvent based sealer and want to switch these formerly waterbased driveways to solvent. The water based is worn off for the most part, its been 3-4 years but you can still see a hint that they were sealed with a water based sealer in the past.
Has anybody had experience going from water based to solvent based?
Is there any additional preparation I will need to take?
Thanks!
sandman
04-14-2008, 10:14 AM
Normally, waterbased sealers should be worn off by 3-4 years. I am surprised you still see anything. Anyways, a good acid wash followed by a preesure washing, which should be done before all sealing jobs, should be all that is needed before a solvent sealer can be applied. Of course, if there is still sometype of sealer remaining on the surface, you need to check if the new sealer is compatible. An inconspicous area is a must. After it has dried, and all looks good, you're ready to roll...or spray!
Check to see if the sand stabilizer is organic or polymeric. It isn't recommended to use coating sealers on organic stabilizers because they need to breathe. But, if it's polymeric, the binding charceristics have probably washed away by now. I know this is for existing projects, but just to make sure everyone knows, it is only wasting money if you stabilize the joint sands with a COATING sealer. Coating sealers provide great sand stabilization
gryan
04-14-2008, 08:58 PM
Thanks Sandman!
When you say acid wash it what exactly are you reffering to? I was thinking of using some efflo cleaner to break anything down that may be left. Is that what you are reffering to or something different?
Thanks again!
sandman
04-15-2008, 02:53 PM
Yes, the acid wash I am referring to is an efflorescence cleaner. MAKE SURE the product you buy is NOT made from muriatic acid. There are a lot of companies out there that say it does the same thing as what you really need, hydrochloric acid. Muriatic acid is a very cheap by-product of the tanning industry. There are no regulations on the strength, mixture, etc. so sever etching or staining can occur. There will be no such thing as a proper dilution ratio working from one bottle to the next...it will be different everytime.
Do you mind if I ask how you charge for cleaning and sealing? is it by the square footafe only? Or are there other factors considered in your bids? Should I consider you use one manufacturer for all your products? I know a lot on applying this stuff, but not so much on the sales/bid side.
gryan
04-15-2008, 04:15 PM
Ok. Good. I only buy efflo cleaners from reputable companies that are specific for pavers. I charge by the square foot. My pricing is basically tiered on quantities. I also consider a Pain In The A#* factor for things like accesability, stains, type of pavers, steps, and having to cut in off of concrete patios or asphalt etc...
Thanks for the reply!
Paver
04-16-2008, 11:19 AM
Always, always, always to a test area when switching sealers on a job. I saw a project in NY that the homeowner sealed his pavers with Thompsons (first mistake). The "shine" was gone in less than a year, but he waited until about 4 years after the application to reseal. When he did reseal, he used a quality solvent-based acrylic sealer for pavers (not Thompsons). His only site prep was a broom. After he sealed it, it looked great, for about 2 weeks. After that, blue blotches started to appear (kind of like oil in water, if that makes sense?). The 2 sealers were not compatible with each other and the ONLY solution was to strip the new sealer off :eek: Maybe an efflo cleaner and pressure washer would have helped, but in my experiance, acids do nothing to remove water-based or solvent-based sealers. Maybe a hot pressure washer alone will help remove some of the water-based sealer that is likely still on the surface, but a test area STILL needs to be done. Incompatability issues may not appear right away, like my homeowner in NY.
gryan
04-16-2008, 08:35 PM
I was planning on pulling a paver from an area with less exposure to the sun, where most sealer would still be left and test it out. I have a hot water pressure washer so hopefully that will help in removing any remnants. Thanks for the suggestions!
jong0726
04-30-2008, 01:20 PM
i have seen lots of concrete patios today. i think they are nice however it is still better if not all patios are concrete.
Paver
04-30-2008, 01:42 PM
still better if not all patios are concrete.
I'll assume you meant poured concrete, not concrete pavers? Otherwise you're on the wrong Forum :confused:
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